About the Artwork
An elite man or woman of the Minangkabau culture in West Sumatra, Indonesia, would have worn this textile during ceremonial occasions such as weddings and chieftain inaugurations. The rich materials and intricate designs displayed the wealth and status of the wearer, who may have been a chieftain or one of his female relatives. Worn by a man, the garment would be draped across the shoulders. Worn by a woman, it was usually folded into an elaborate headdress.
Some of the designs woven into this cloth symbolize Minangkabau cultural values or represent ceremonial items. Look for repeated “X” shapes in diagonal lines that intersect to form a diamond pattern; they signify a chain, which stands for the strength of a community that works together. Rows of smaller diamonds along the border represent special rice cakes made for weddings and other ceremonies.
Minangkabau cloths woven in this style, with a dark background, are known as “kain basahan itam,” or “textile dipped in black.”
Ceremonial Shoulder Cloth (Salendang) or Head Cloth (Tangkuluak)
19th century
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Sumatran
Minangkabau
Cotton, silk, gold thread, lacquered paper
Overall: 24 3/4 × 83 inches (62.9 × 210.8 cm)
Textiles
Asian Art
Gift of Janis B. Wetsman
2019.60
Public Domain
Markings
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Provenance
(A. Sutan Majo Indo, proprietor of Toko Aladdin gallery, Bukittinggi, West Sumatra, Indonesia);1997, purchased by Janis Wetsman (Birmingham, Michigan, USA);
2019-present, gift to the Detroit Institute of Arts (Detroit, Michigan, USA)
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Credit Line for Reproduction
Minangkabau, Sumatran, Ceremonial Shoulder Cloth (Salendang) or Head Cloth (Tangkuluak), 19th century, cotton, silk, gold thread, lacquered paper. Detroit Institute of Arts, Gift of Janis B. Wetsman, 2019.60.
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